Free run press (the dirt on wine — unfiltered!)

Introduction · Summer down there · France · Orygun · Warshington · And finally, fizz

January 2009

January, Janvier, Gennaio, Enero, and so forth ...

Hunkering down, glass half full.
Let's call it the way it is. The economy just plain sucks right now, the news is dire, dour and downright discouraging — and may even get worse before it gets better. OK then, nobody likes it, but it is what it is.

And while the prudent thing to do is to haul in the financial reins and rediscover the meaning of austerity, that doesn't mean that one needs to get on the total temperance bandwagon or be resigned to "Three (or is it four?) Buck Chuck" for the foreseeable future (and as for me, as much as I love wine, I'll swear off drinking before I go there). That would truly be cruel and unusual, indeed. One has to draw the line.

Rather, just a little out-of-the box thinking and a trusted wine merchant can keep your glass full — both quantitatively and qualitatively — with a minimum of fiscal guilt. This is where we come in.

Because we deal with many producers, importers and wholesalers who operate outside the regular "corporate" factory-made wine trade, we have access to many superb wines that are produced on far too small a scale for the "big boys" to even consider — while bypassing the numerous marketers and brokers who each take a profit and ultimately raise the price to the consumer.

Meanwhile, we consider the current climate a challenge — and an opportunity. We're exploring new countries, appellations and producers, looking for honest, character-driven wines offer major bang for the buck. And we're finding some amazing things to drink out there. So, take heart and don't forget that life is short — you need to make every glass count! The glass really is half full.

Summer down there

Once upon a time, South American wines could be summed up in two words: cheap and Chilean. These were the kind of wines that might best be described as "not bad" (but then they weren't particularly great, either). But that was then, while "now" offers astoundingly great wines — at prices that are reminiscent of the mediocre old days. Check out these delicious finds from Chile and Argentina. Did I say "value?"

Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc "sustainably farmed" ($12)
Made with fruit from vineyards that are farmed organically but that have not yet undergone the three-year certification period, this wine is typical of Cono Sur's commitment to making great wines in an environmentally and socially responsible way. Fresh and lively, it offers intense citrus notes with tangy grapefruit singing a trio with notes of chili pepper and minerals. Refreshing, juicy and elegant, this a perfect sauvignon for year-round drinking.

Rayun Carmenère ($9)
An intense violet color in the glass, this full-bodied Carménère is a great example of just how delicious Chile's signature varietal can be. Touches of spice and tar show on the expressive nose; the mouth is rich, with deep black/red fruits and earthy notes of incense and tobacco. Tannins are fine and silky, while the finish is long and ends on a suggestion of eucalyptus honey. If you've never experienced Carménère, this is the place to start. (NBI)

Zolo Torrontes ($12.50) ($11, 12/31 thru 1/13)
What is Torrontes? Thought to have Mediterranean origins, it has become emblematic of Argentinean white wines, not unlike its red counterpart, Malbec. Its aromas are strikingly reminiscent of peach, roses and jasmine. On the palate, it marries a combination of voluptuousness with nuance and a pleasant, citrusy freshness that ends in a long, seductive finish. With crisp acidity to balance its lush, lemon-tinged fruit, this is a fine wine to enjoy with just about anything al fresco.

Zolo Malbec ($12.50) ($11, 12/31 thru 1/13)
Zolo owners, the Ortiz family are dedicated to producing character-driven, quality wines. This delicious Malbec is made of grapes selected from the estate's best vineyards, located in the prime wine-growing region of Mendoza. Minerally terroir provides a solid counterpoint to the wine's intense flavors of black fruits, berries and raspberries, all of which reverberate in considerable complexity and elegance.

Chono "San Lorenzo" ($18)
"San Lorenzo" is comprised of Carménère, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard on the Isla de la Maipo, a deep gravel alluvium that recalls the best soil structures of the Médoc. It is no surprise then that the wine reveals notes of graphite, black truffle, cassis, dried black cherry, tobacco, mineral, and bay laurel. Sweetly fruited and round, this wine offers superb drinking now but will develop gracefully over the next 5 years. (NBI)

France

Image du Sud
Normally, we tend to eschew "négociant" wines, preferring wherever possible to feature estate grown juice. But when one finds wines as delicious and as ridiculously, reasonably priced as these, one is a colossal fool to miss the opportunity. Cécile Chassagne, a vigneronne who produces her own estate wines in the village of Sablet, selects the wines, and is in charge of the vinification, bottling, labeling and marketing of wines for the Image du Sud label. Her integrity and attention to detail are readily evident in these outstanding wines.

Côtes du Rhône «cdr» 2007 ($10)
Even fresh off the boat, this wine is irresistible. Racy, ripe Grenache leads the way with ripe raspberries and cherries, supported by a foundation of dark purple fruit-drenched Syrah. Accents of white pepper, sun-baked stones, wild herbs and that special, sun-kissed southern Rhône je ne sais quoi round out the picture. Just arrived as of December 17, it will do nothing but improve in the bottle over the coming year. Drink it with everything, whenever possible.

Châteauneuf du Pâpe 2005 ($25)
When we were offered the last cases of the delicious 2005, we jumped at the chance. If you've not yet tried this fetching wine, you'll be smitten with this amazing taste of Provençal soul. Start with ripe aromas and flavors of raspberry and black cherry confit, weave in notes of spice, wild herbs and white pepper and wrap the entire fabric around a core of brooding, stony minerality and you begin to get the idea. It's a stroll in the garden and a walk on the wild side all at once. Perfect with beef, duck or just about anything robust.

Domaine des Cassagnoles «Reserve» Gros Manseng ($12) ($10, 12/31 thru 1/13)
For the overwhelming majority of us who've never heard of Gros Manseng, let's keep it simple: it's a white grape. In your mouth it translates thusly: 1. Bright, lively, verve-aceous, tangy, southwest French sunshine in a bottle. 2. Juicy, perfectly ripe flavors of fresh, fresh, fresh citrus, a tangerine dream with some minerally leanings. 3. A fine companion to bivalves, crustaceans and various things bird and fish-like, especially when grilled.

Domaine de Haut Marin
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Blanc ($9)
It's back — along with it's red sibling! Bright, juicy and vividly fresh, this 50-50 blend of colombard and ugni blanc is a delicious, affordable house wine, with enough character to interest your palate day in, day out. Crisp, clean and bursting with tangy, ripe fruit, it's a great companion to shellfish, salads, fresh seasonal produce, poultry or appetizers.

Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Rouge ($9)
"House" wine, defined. This sturdy, well-built mélange of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tannat delivers plenty of cassis and blackberry fruit, with firm tannins, and plenty of structure, making it an amiable, reliable companion to everything from lentil soup to lamb.

Orygun

«Grenoir» ($12.50)
A certain high-profile producer of big-ticket pinot had some barrels of young vine grenache and pinot noir in the cellar, awaiting their destiny. Lightbulb! What if? Result: this delectable, eclectic, thoroughly unique wine. We've never before tasted a grenache, pinot noir blend, but it works! (And deliciously so.) An alluring weave of raspberry, cherry and sarsaparilla notes greets the nose and crescendos on the palate, where the graceful, medium-bodied flavors are woven into a deliciously intriguing texture. Perfect with grilled salmon, mushroom risotto or duck breast.

Cooper Hill
The younger siblings of Cooper Mountain wines, these organically, biodynamically grown wines are from younger vines and receive less (or no) time in wood than their counterparts. Made in a fresh, crisp irresistibly drinkable style, they are some of the best values to be found among Oregon wines!

Pinot Noir ($21) ($18, 1/14 thru 1/27)
Featuring verve-aceous, bright red fruits with an easily discernible cherry bias, this brightly flavored, crisply textured wine offers perfectly ripe cherry and raspberry fruit. There's enough richness to please the palate, while maintaining a lithe, agile balance. Just plain tasty!

Pinot Gris ($14.50) ($13, 1/14 thru 1/27)
Once again, verve and brightly flavored, beautifully focused fruit are the keys. Pure pinot gris fruit offers a fine balance of richness and agile texture, with firm acidity making it dance on the palate. Way out west fruit and freshness, with old world style!

Warshington

Cadence Winery
Any musician will tell you that it takes far more "chops" to play softly that it does to play loud. And without dynamic range, music is little more than a collection of notes. Amazingly, just a few of the hundreds of wineries in the state understand that principle applies to wine every bit as much as it does to music. But Ben Smith and Gaye McNutt "get it," as evidenced by their wines, all of which marry power, elegance and dynamic range of flavor and texture. These wines are emphatically recommended!

2006 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain ($45)
Like a dancer, this wine's considerable power is veiled in grace and balance. Aromas of blueberry, cherry and cassis are woven with notes of wild brush and gravelly minerals, then re-stated on the palate in a profoundly rich, but lithe texture. A study in old world elegance — with a way-out-west accent.

2006 Camerata, Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain ($55)
This, the first release from the Cadence estate vineyard, "Cara Mia" is an astounding debut — and promises generations of superb wines to come! The blend of 94% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc is readily evident in the enticing aromas of spice and dust — nuanced red and black fruits. That main theme of focused fruit swells and intensifies to a finely balanced finish, woven with notes of dust and brush.

And finally, fizz

What're we doin' talkin' 'bout bubbles in January? Too many of us (including yr obedient correspondent) tend to think that things that sparkle are reserved for special" occasions and forget that they are fabulous companions to a tremendous array of dishes (not to mention just plain delicious). And when it comes to special, isn't just about any day a great day to celebrate?

Besides, the following wines took the proverbial slow boat across the pond and didn't arrive until just before "the winter holiday." Ergo, our cup runneth over with a boatload o'bubbles. Which doesn't change the fact that life is better with a frequent taste of fizz. Enjoy!

Antech Blanquette de Limoux ($15)
Sparkling wine was invented by the monks at the abbey of Ste. Hilaire in 1531. Nearly 500 years later, the wines of Limoux continue to offer amazing quality and character. The traditional blend of mauzac and chenin blanc renders a lovely alliance of fruit and focus, with aromas of spring flowers that segue to a palate of ripe, but crisp fruits with a hint of green apple and fruit blossoms. Persistent, fine bubbles round out an elegantly satisfying bottle of fizz.

Clos Château Gaillard
Touraine Brut ($15) ($13.50, 1/14 thru 1/27)
There's something about this wine that's reminiscent of a fine Spring day, with its gentle perfume of white flowers, ripe pears and hints of cool minerals. Those themes are restated on the palate, where a note of lemon blossom joins the chorus of fruit and gains intensity on the finish. Crisp acidity and lively bubbles add percussion and complexity to a thoroughly pleasing bottle of biodynamically grown fizz.

Touraine Brut Rosé ($15) ($13.50, 1/14 thru 27) From the first whiff, this fine, biodynamically grown froth will evoke a smile of easy satisfaction. Aromas that simultaneously recall fruit blossoms and a walk through a patch of ripe berries segue to ripe Asian pear with a whiff of creamy cherries on the palate. Clean, crisp and elegantly balanced, this is a joy to drink.

Domaine Ducolomb Bugey Méthode Ançestrale ($22) ($20, 1/14 thru 27)
Festive fizz, defined! Here is yet another of the delicious, eclectic wines that France has to offer to the intrepid palate. Made entirely of Gamay, it offers effusively bright, fresh red berry fruit with the added dimension of lively effervescence. In the mouth the joyous tumult of fresh fruit from the nose is carried by an unctuousness that is well balanced between sweet fruit and lively acidity. Dry, vibrant and luscious, this is a fine apéritif or complement to a wide range of dishes.

Baron Fuente Brut NV «Cuvée Galipettes» ($39.50) ($35, 1/14 thru 27)
Here's a compelling case for drinking Champagne with everything, all the time. From golden hue to flavors that crescendo on the finish, it shows the depth and focus that come from great grapes (organically grown) handled by deft hands. Lovely notes of fruit on the nose segue to a fresh, complex palate that restates the fruit and adds notes of toasted bread. A well-balanced, beautiful wine.

Baron Fuente Brut Rosé «Cuvée Dolores» ($39.50) ($35, 1/14 thru 27)
A generous serving of Pinot Meunier in the blend provides a lovely, wild strawberry focus in this delicious Champagne's lovely weave of flavors. Its vibrant color offers visual seduction, then delivers on the promise with intense fruit, an ultra- delicate bead, creamy, luscious texture and superb length. Why spend more when you can have such delectable fizz for so little?